The 5 types of hyaluronic acid at a glance
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Hyaluronic acid, a molecule naturally present in the skin, isessential for hydration, cell regeneration, and maintaining or restoring facial volume.
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With age, its quantity and quality decrease,reducing the skin's hydration, firmness, and suppleness.
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Hyaluronic acid treatments use different forms (low, medium, high molecular weight, cross-linked, microfragmented) to act on the different layers of the skin.
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The range HYALU-FILLER by FILORGA, inspired by injections used in aesthetic medicine, combines several types of hyaluronic acid to provide intense hydration, treat wrinkles, and a plumping effect.
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These treatments combine proven effectiveness, pleasant textures and a composition rich in natural ingredients to meet the skin's specific needs.
What is Hyaluronic acid?
Present in the skin mainly in the dermis, which contains approximately 50% of the body's total hyaluronic acid, it is synthesized by specialized cells called fibroblasts. The epidermis also contains hyaluronic acid, but in smaller quantities. It must be constantly renewed, as it is rapidly degraded in the different layers of the skin. This renewal is ensured by the body itself (this is called endogenous production) or by the application of hyaluronic acid-based treatments. With its great retention capacity (a molecule can capture approximately 1000 times its weight in water), hyaluronic acid helps hydrate the skin. It absorbs water like a sponge and forms a sort of gel that fills empty spaces and protects the skin from shocks. It thus constitutes a reservoir that keeps the skin hydrated and prevents the appearance of wrinkles and skin aging.
With age, there is a progressive decrease in hyaluronic acid in the skin. Its quality and size also decrease, reducing its ability to hydrate and regenerate the skin. To compensate for this natural decline, experts recommend using hyaluronic acid creams and serums in your skincare routine.
Uses of hyaluronic acid according to needs
In addition to its cosmetic benefits, hyaluronic acid is used for various applications depending on its form (known as galenic) and molecular weight (the mass of each molecule):
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In healing creams, it helps maintain the skin hydrated and facilitate the repair process.
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As a filler injection product in aesthetic medicine, it reduces the depth of wrinkles, corrects facial volume, and plumps the lips.
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In rheumatology, it is used to treat osteoarticular pathologies such as osteoarthritis and to restore the lubricating functions of synovial fluid.
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In ophthalmology, it protects the eye during surgery.
All types of hyaluronic acid for the face
We have just seen that it There is not one, but several forms of hyaluronic acid. In our treatments, we use five, which vary according to two main factors:
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The molecular weight: the lower it is, the more hyaluronic acid penetrates the skin, and the higher it is, the more it acts on the surface. It is expressed in Daltons (Da) or kiloDaltons (kDa).
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The structure, which can be linear, cross-linked, or microfragmented.
Each form has different properties, hence the importance of combining them to optimize their anti-aging benefits. Let's go into a little more detail.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, between 20 kDa and 500 kDa (also called low molecular weight)
This is a fragmented acid which, thanks to its small size, can easily penetrate the deeper layers of the skin. It retains water in the skin (therefore it has a moisturizing effect). Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid also has regenerative properties with an effect on wrinkles. Indeed, it has the ability to:
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Stimulate cell proliferation, i.e., the multiplication of skin cells.
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Restart the production of endogenous hyaluronic acid, because when it is degraded in the skin, hyaluronic acid fragments signal to the cells that they need to reproduce it.
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Restart the production ofType I collagen, which is the most common form of collagen in the human body and gives the skin its structure.
Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid, between 1,000 kDa and 1,800 kDa
It penetrates the skin's surface layers and quickly strengthens epidermal hydration. Skincare products containing this type of hyaluronic acid therefore help keep skin better hydrated throughout the day.
High molecular weight hyaluronic acid, between 500 kDa and 4 million Da
This molecule does not penetrate the skin. It forms a non-occlusive protective film that prevents dehydration and strengthens the protective barrier on the surface of the epidermis.
Cross-linked hyaluronic acid
The structure of common hyaluronic acid is linear. A chain of atoms forming a line—almost—straight, if you will. At high concentrations, the linear molecules of hyaluronic acid combine to form what is called a cross-linked structure.
This version of classic hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the skin's surface, whichimproves barrier function, prevents dehydration, and increases elasticity.
Microfragmented hyaluronic acid
Microfragmented hyaluronic acid acts in a targeted manner to hydrate the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It acts on two levels: the epidermis and the dermis.
In the epidermis, it improves hydration by stimulating the natural production of high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, helping to reduce superficial wrinkles.
In the dermis,it limits the negative effects of inflammation caused by UV rays by reducing the production of inflammatory molecules (such as TNF-alpha) responsible for free radicals. This helps protect the skin's structural components, including collagen and elastin, and improves overall skin quality.
In short, this active ingredient helps the skin regenerate, maintain its hydration, and prevent the formation of new wrinkles.
To summarize, the five forms of hyaluronic acid we've just described combine to provide the following properties:
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Moisturizing
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Regenerators
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Protective
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Preventive
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And reduce the effects of skin aging
