Everything you need to know about hyperpigmentation and dark spots on the skin

FILORGA explains how to fight against skin spots.

Skin spots, often called pigment spots, can affect anyone, regardless of age or gender. Once present, it is very difficult to get rid of them and to find effective solutions against them. This is why it is essential to understand the origin as well as the factors underlying their formation.

In this article, our experts shed light on the role of melanin and the various triggers that can lead to the formation of these imperfections. From sun exposure to the after-effects of acne, including hormonal imbalances and changes, you'll learn everything about the causes of skin spots as well as the active ingredients cosmetics most effective for preventing them.

What you need to know about spots and skin pigmentation

Melanin is a pigment secreted by the skin to protect it from the sun.
It is responsible for tanning, but if its production degenerates, it gives rise to spots on the skin.
There are four main types of spots: hyperpigmentation, melasma or pregnancy mask, freckles, acne marks.
It is essential to have your skin checked regularly by a qualified healthcare professional.
To treat skin spots, active ingredients are used that block the production of melanin and/or its transport to the epidermal cells.

Dark spots and hyperpigmentation: a story of melanin

To effectively prevent and treat dark spots, it is essential to understand their origin. In the vast majority of cases, this comes down to the action of a pigment: melanin. This pigment, responsible for skin color, is normally a natural UV filter that protects the skin from the sun. Melanin absorbs UV rays, preventing them from reaching DNA and damaging skin cells. However, sometimes the melanin cycle becomes disrupted due to various factors, leading to the appearance of dark spots. Explanations.

Where and how is melanin produced?

Melanin is produced in the deep layers of theepidermis by specialized cells calledmelanocytes.

The mechanism of melanin production is melanogenesis. It consists of two main stages:

Melanin synthesis: Thanks to an enzyme, melanin is produced in melanocytes and stored in small sacs called melanosomes.
Melanin distribution in the epidermis: Melanosomes are then transported to the epidermal cells (keratinocytes), where they protect their DNA by forming a protective barrier.

The 2 Types of Melanin

Melanocytes can produce two different types of melanin:

Eumelanin which has a black-brown color
Pheomelanin which has a yellow to red.

Skin color is determined by the distribution of these two types of melanin. In the cosmetics industry and dermatology, this distribution is called a person's phototype. It's an important concept that characterizes a skin type based on its ability to naturally protect itself from UV rays or, conversely, to develop sunburn..

Melanin is a pigment found in spots on the skin.

Regulation of Melanin Production

The parameters we have just mentioned are determined by genetics, but they can also be influenced by the environment.

When exposed to the sun, melanin synthesis increases: this is the phenomenon of tanning. When this exposure is controlled, it's a good thing, as the skin protects itself. But if the amount of UV rays received exceeds the skin's absorption capacity, if we are exposed to significant pollution too often, or if our hormones undergo major changes, melanin secretion degenerates. It is then produced in excessive quantities, causing the formation of clumps responsible for the appearance of spots on the skin's surface.

The Different Types of Skin Spots

As we have just seen, all spots have melanin as their common denominator. But that doesn't mean they all have the same symptoms. There are four main types of skin spots:

Hyperpigmentation spots, also called lentigo or age spots, are caused by excessive sun exposure. They mainly appear on areas less covered by clothing, such as the face, neck, forearms, hands, etc. These clumps of melanin, which form over time and most often become visible after the age of 40, are one of the signs of skin aging. Melasma, or pregnancy mask, is mainly caused by: by hormonal imbalances. Thus, it does not only occur during pregnancy, but also following the taking of medical treatments such as contraceptives or a hormonal imbalance. It also has a strong hereditary component. Melasma is not related to the lentigo mentioned above. It is also characterized by brown spots on the skin of the face, but these spots are much more extensive, hence the impression of a mask. It should also be noted that melasma is not only found in women, as in some regions of the world it can affect a significant proportion of the male population. li> Freckles, whose scientific name is ephelides, are small pigmented spots on the skin, usually orange or light brown in color. They mainly form on sun-exposed areas, such as the face, nose, cheeks, and sometimes on the shoulders and back. They can affect all skin types but mainly appear in people with fair skin, who don't tan or tan very little, and who instead develop these spots when exposed to the sun's UV rays.
Acne can also leave spots that persist even after the pimples have disappeared. They are red or brown in color. Acne is an inflammatory disease responsible, among other things, for excessive melanin production, which accumulates in the areas where the pimples are located. Once these heal, the excess melanin remains and spots appear.

Are spots on the skin a cause for concern?

First of all, please note that we have chosen to include this section for prevention purposes. It is not intended to be diagnostic and in no way replaces the advice of a qualified healthcare professional.

In the vast majority of the cases we have just described, pigmented spots on the skin can be unsightly but are not dangerous in their current state.

However, it is important to be aware of certain warning signs related to melanoma, a type of skin cancer that can develop from an existing spot or appear as a new lesion. Here are the main criteria to look for, often summarized by the ABCDE rule:

A is for Asymmetry: A spot or mole is asymmetrical if one half does not resemble the other.
B is for Irregular Border: Irregular, jagged, or blurred borders can indicate a problem, unlike those of a freckle, which are generally well-defined.
C is for Varied Colors: A melanoma can present several colors, including shades brown, black, red, white, or blue, while a healthy spot is generally monochrome.
D for Diameter: A mole or spot that measures more than 6 mm (about the size of an eraser) is a warning sign. Melanomas can be smaller, but this measurement is a good indicator.
E for Evolution: Any change in the size, shape, color, or texture of a spot, or the appearance of new symptoms such as itching, bleeding, or crusting, should be taken seriously.

Other signs such as a spot that does not heal, a mole that oozes or bleeds, or the appearance of open lesions or ulcers should raise alarm bells.

In any case, in addition to applying quality protection when you're exposed to the sun, it's crucial to see a dermatologist regularly to have your skin checked, just as you do with your teeth at the dentist.

How to treat dark spots on the skin

Remember what we said above about melanin synthesis. It is produced by an enzyme and stored in small sacs (melanosomes) before being distributed to the epidermal cells (keratinocytes).

Since hyperpigmentation spots are caused by a localized excess of melanin, the solution to avoid or reduce them is to prevent melanin from accumulating in skin cells. Thus, to stop melanin production and act on dark spots, it will be necessary to either block the action of the enzyme that produces it, or prevent the delivery of melanin to the epidermal cells.

It is on these precise points that the active ingredients selected by FILORGA's formulation experts act.

Blocking melanin production

To prevent melanin secretion, we use vitamin C and Glabridin, a polyphenol extracted from licorice roots. These two compounds act on all melanin synthesis pathways, with a powerful enzyme-inhibiting effect.

Blocking Melanin Transport

Therainbow brown algae extract Cystoseira tamariscifolia prevents the transport of melanin to epidermal cells, making the formation of spots impossible.

These three active ingredients are the heart of our SKIN UNIFY skincare formula, inspired by laser technology, and which act at all stages of dark spot formation on the skin.