All about the INCI list, the international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients

How do you decipher the ingredient list of a cosmetic cream? This is a difficult question to answer and seems to be reserved for experts in the field. However, with the information we're going to give you on the INCI list and a little practice, you can learn to easily recognize common ingredients and decipher labels with ease. You will then become independent and will be able to make informed choices about your cosmetic products.

All you need to know about the INCI list in a few lines

• The INCI list was created to standardize the nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients.
• It is used worldwide and is mandatory for all products sold in Europe.
• It follows strict rules that help consumers better choose their cosmetic products.

The origins of the INCI list

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list was created in 1973 in the United States by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA), an association of cosmetics manufacturers. At that time, theneed to standardize the nomenclature ofingredients had become obvious, particularly for reasons of transparency and safety.

Indeed, the different commercial and scientific names used for the same ingredient could lead to confusion. This list then spread to the Old Continent, where its use on packaging became mandatory in 1998.

Over the decades, it has expanded and evolved to meet increasing regulatory requirements. The INCI list is now internationally recognized and used by cosmetic manufacturers worldwide to ensure clear and consistent communication about product composition. This means that whether you buy a product in New York, Paris, Berlin, or Tokyo, you can rest assured that the ingredient list will be formulated in the same way.

Why are manufacturers required to use the same nomenclature?

The requirement to use the INCI ingredient list is based on several essential reasons, including:

• Transparency and trust: Consumers need to know what they are applying to their skin. A standardized nomenclature allows them to easily understand product compositions,regardless of the brand or country of origin.

Cosmetic Product Labels: INCI List Codes

When you buy a product, the INCI list is usually found on the back of the packaging. But when you're not used to it, understanding this list can be tricky. Here are some tips to help you:

• The mandatory labeling: all ingredients must be listed after the term "ingredients" on the packaging. No surprise, they're all grouped together in the same place.
• Use of the INCI nomenclature: Manufacturers must refer to the glossary of common ingredient names. Importantly, ingredient names are standardized: in Latin for plant extracts and in English for chemical substances. That's why you'll never see "vitamin C" in a list of ingredients, but "ascorbic acid," the chemical name of this molecule. Nor does "shea butter," which will appear under the name "Butyrospermum parkii".
• The order of ingredients: they are listed in descending order of their concentration in the product. Generally, the first three or four ingredients make up more than 80% of the composition. For ingredients present at less than 1% in cosmetics, they can be listed in any order. This specificity is important, but should still be taken with a grain of salt. Indeed, in terms of concentration, more does not necessarily mean better, and most active ingredients are very effective at low doses.
• Perfumes and Flavorings: To protect its manufacturing secrets, manufacturers can simply refer to the ingredients that give a product its scent as "perfume," "fragrance," or "aroma." However, the main allergens present in perfumes must be specifically indicated.

These rules ensure greater transparency and allow consumers to better understand the cosmetic products they apply to their skin.

However, knowing these regulatory aspects is not enough to differentiate the components of a formula. To find out, read on!

Practical exercises: the list of cosmetic ingredients in NCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM

At FILORGA, we are masters in the art of combining cutting-edge formulations with the sensorial appeal of our products.Our skincare products are not only effective, they are also pleasant to use and wear day and night. This is only possible thanks to the expertise of our experts, who always know how to use the right dosages for each ingredient.

But this scientific and technical requirement would be nothing without the desire for transparency that has always driven us. That's why, to illustrate our point, we invite you to study one of our labels, that of theNCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM.

Let's explore it together.

Active Ingredients

Active ingredients arethe ingredients that act on the skin to provide benefits. They are responsible for the product's effectiveness. Among the best-known are:

• Hyaluronic acid (INCI name: SODIUM HYALURONATE).
• Collagen boosters.
• Vitamins and minerals.
• Amino acids.
• Antioxidants.
• Etc.

On our label, we've colored the active ingredients in our star compound, NCEF [New Cellular Encapsulated Factors], pink, and the other active ingredients in the formula yellow.

Moisturizing and emollient agents

They help integrate the active ingredients into the formula andprovide the skin with hydration and nutrition. Here we have:

• Water! (AQUA).
• Excipients/solvents/humectants (pentylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin) that retain water and moisturize the skin. Note that names ending in "DIOL" belong to the glycol family.

As you can see, they appear first on the list: they therefore occupy the largest volume in the finished product.

Emulsifiers

Most cosmetics consist of a mixture of two phases: aqueous and oily, called an emulsion. Emulsifiers help stabilize this blend over time.

NCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM contains:

• PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL. To identify this family, look for the prefix "PEG" or "PPG." This ingredient helps bind oil and water and solubilize active ingredients.
• POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIOLEATE, POLYGLYCERYL-10 DIPALMITATE, and GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE. They belong to the fatty acid ester family. These are compound names with the first name ending in "YL" and the second ending in "ATE." There is another fatty acid ester that is frequently found in cosmetics, but with a slightly different name: caprylic (or capric) triglyceride.

Texturizing Agents

Texturizing agents (thickeners, gelling agents, etc.) allow you toadapt the viscosity, appearance, and feel of a formula to optimize the product's sensory experience. Here, it's Xanthan Gum, which is also often found in food.

Preservatives

Antibacterial/antifungal agentsprotect the formula by preventing the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria, yeast, fungi, etc.

In our serum, sodium benzoate and benzoic acid play this role.

pH adjusters

These ingredients adjust the pH of formulasso that it is adapted to theskin pH. In the NCEF-REVITALIZE SERUM, our experts use sodium citrate and citric acid.

Colorants and perfumes

These ingredients (FRAGRANCE) help toenhance the product's sensory qualities to optimize application pleasure. The FILORGA olfactory signature exudes notes of bergamot, rose, and green tea.

Now that you have all this information, it's your turn! Go find your favorite FILORGA product in your bathroom and see if you can recognize the ingredients used!